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Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve- June 2007
I arrived in Delhi with anticipation and excitement as I had not visited Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve for over two years. I was very much hoping to see some of the tigers that I had come across on my previous visits to the reserve. Unfortunately, my stay in Delhi was extended by twenty-four hours due to tribal disturbances in Rajasthan and eventually we arrived at Sawai Madhopur on Sunday 3 June. I enjoyed my first safari at Ranthambhore during that afternoon when we found Machali (the most well known and filmed tigress) and her three female cubs resting at the rear of the old hunting palace overlooking the Rajbagh lake. As the afternoon progressed the tigers moved to the front of the palace where we could see them running and playing with each other. This lake area is within Machali's home range and as there is an abundance of prey species here it is an important part of her territory. During my stay at Ranthambhore I saw her and the cubs around the Rajbagh lake many times. We enjoyed some very good sightings of 'the family' but in particular while driving on a narrow track through the valley of Nalghati, we found Machali and her three cubs walking towards us. Our driver reversed the jeep enabling me to photograph the group making their way down the winding track. On another occasion Machali and her cubs were joined by a large male tiger - her son from her previous litter. I had first seen this male over two years ago with his sister as small cubs. He was now almost fully grown and appeared happy to spend periods of time with his mother's new family and sometimes stayed with the cubs while Machali either patrolled her home range or went hunting. On 10 June it was reported that Machali had encountered another adult tiger and after a considerable amount of growling and interaction it transpired that this was her sister! From this time until 14 June, two of the cubs went missing and although seen on one occasion, they were found to be alone. During the encounter with her sister, Machali had received some minor injuries to one of her forelegs but we were particularly concerned for the safety of the two cubs. Although it is not unusual for a tigress to leave her cubs for a couple of days while she hunts and patrols her home range, it is unusual for her to be accompanied by just one cub while the other two were alone and possibly hungry. Just prior to leaving the reserve late afternoon on 13 June, we found Machali with one cub heading towards us and into the area of the park where the cubs were last seen. The 14 June was to be my last day at Ranthambhore and I really hoped that we would get to see Machali and all the cubs re-united before I made my journey back to Delhi. My last day arrived and during the morning drive we were given the great news that the previous evening Machali had been heard calling for her two misplaced cubs. Apparently later that same night a forest guard had seen all the family together again close to the lakes. I was very relieved to hear this news and we drove straight for the Rajbagh lake area in the hope that we might see the family together again. Sure enough we soon found them by the edge of the lake and we remained with them for the entire morning drive. Machali and the three cubs disappeared into the long grass but after a very short while she re-appeared and charged at a herd of Chital deer on the dry section of the lake. Needless to say the deer scattered in all directions - better luck next time Machali! A number of photographs from my latest trip can be found in the picture gallery section of 'tigersintheforest.com'. |